Hal Huffsmith
For all our research and experimentation, grape growing is still as much about art as it is science. While we at Trinchero make good use of current accepted wisdom and modern technology, our ability to produce fine wine is ultimately driven by our personal involvement and understanding of the land and its vines.
To be sure, we have our share of neutron probes and pressure chambers to track vine water content. We take pruning weights and determine the number of buds that need to remain after pruning to generate the target tonnage. Clusters are counted before and after set and yield projections are plotted, prompting thinning if necessary. We even have weather forecasters on the payroll. But, all of these progressive devices are of little use if we are not in the vineyard, developing an intimate sense for the vines and their performance. Being there, touching the plants, walking the land and feeling the soil beneath our feet is far more important than raw statistical data and scripted methodologies.
To make great wine it is also essential that we understand the history of a site. What was previously planted on or nearby the property? What do our winemakers think of wines from this region? Are there any known problems with the site (frost, phylloxera, nematodes etc.)? What are the positive attributes of the parcel and the surrounding region? This is a large part of what the French mean when they refer to terroir. It's not just the dirt and drainage, it's the accumulated history and knowledge generated through trial and error that form the planting and farming strategies and, ultimately, the kind of wine made from grapes grown at that site. And b eyond the measurable ecosystem, there is also the spiritual aspect that recognizes the joys, the heartbreaks, the pride, the sweat and the frustrations of a vineyard’ s long evolution .
At Trinchero, we are well acquainted with the science of growing fine grapes. But ultimately, it’s our observations, experience, and personal relationship with the land and its vines that determine our viticultural decisions and the quality and character of our wines.